July 19, 2014

Grilled Pizza: Thinking Outside The Bun

July 19, 2014/ laura luciano

Summertime is all about grilling. And on the East End of Long Island, backyard grills are in full-flame. Farm-to-grill is my thing this time of year. Farmers markets are bustling with just picked heirloom vegetables and juicy fruits. The finest selections of artisanal award-winning cheeses from goats and cows are being sampled by the summering masses and same day organic eggs are being gobbled up by the dozen. Long Island variety mushrooms are showing off their spores and craft beer is being poured into growlers. I get giddy. So much so, that I have been thinking outside the bun.

I am addicted to grilled pizza. It sounds novel but it is truly elementary. Imagine a Neapolitan thin crust style pizza that is perfectly soft and crisp, lightly-charred, with a nice smoky flavor that cooks in a flash right on your grill. The hardest part to making grilled pizza is figuring out what to put on top. Meander through the Hayground, Westhampton, Montauk and the up-and-coming Hampton Bays farmers markets and I am sure you will be inspired too.

I made my own pizza dough with Montauk Brewing Company’s Driftwood Ale, however, store bought pizza is easy enough, right? When the ingredients are as fresh as they are on the East End anything goes. This is about thinking outside the bun, so give homemade pizza beer dough a chance and get grilling.

This past week, I experimented with different types of toppings:

Catapano Goat Cheese with Long Island potatoes, leeks and caramelized onions

Browder’ Birds eggs, Long Island asparagus with ricotta, prosciutto, Amagansett Sea Salt East Hampton Blend

Shinnecock clams with Sang Lee Farms garlic scapes that I made into pesto

Shiitake Mushrooms from Long Island Mushroom Company with homemade sausage, caramelized red onions, ricotta, farm eggs and homegrown oregano.

Grilled Pizza with Browder’s Birds Eggs, Sang Lee Farms Asparagus with Ricotta, Prosciutto and Amagansett Sea Salt East Hampton Blend.

Beer Pizza Dough

Ingredients

1 can of room temperature Montauk Brewing Company Driftwood Ale Beer (or any favorite brew)
4 cups of King Arthur flour
¼ cup of olive oil
2 teaspoons of sea salt
2 teaspoons of honey
1 packet of active dry yeast (or 3 tablespoons of your own sourdough starter)

Directions

1. Combine the flour, yeast, (or starter) and salt in a stand mixer with the dough hook. Turn the machine on and add the oil.

2. Turn the stand mixer on low to medium and add the beer a little at a time. Mix until the mixture forms a ball and is slightly sticky to the touch. If it is still dry, add another tablespoon or two of the beer and process for a few seconds.

note: if the mixture is too sticky, add flour a tablespoon at a time.

3. Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead by hand for a few seconds to form a smooth, round dough ball. Put the dough in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let rise until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 4 hours.

4. When the dough is ready, divide into 3 pieces. Roll each piece into a ¼-inch pizza shape of your choice.

Note: you can freeze the pizza dough for later use.

Grilling the Pizza

Ingredients

3 eggs
½ pound of asparagus
5 pieces of prosciutto (more or less as you like)
1 cup of ricotta cheese, whipped
1/2 cup of grated piave or grana padano cheese.
Amagansett Sea Salt, East Hampton Blend
Olive Oil
Cracked Black Pepper

Equipment

Grill
Brush for oil
Metal spatula
Metal tongs

Directions

Note: Make sure you prep all your ingredients before you start grilling as the pizza cooks fast and you want to make sure you have everything on hand and ready to go. The grill should be set to high.

Pre-grill the asparagus in tinfoil with a little bit of olive oil; cook until just tender. Whip the ricotta until smooth in a mini food processor.
Roll out the dough to a ¼ inch thick; an oblong shape.

note: do not worry if the shape is not perfect, it does not matter, have fun.
Take the stretched piece of dough and place directly on the grill. Cook the first side with the lid shut for one minute. Then open lid and when dough puffs it is time to flip. Lower the temperature on the grill to low.
Flip the dough, and quickly brush the olive oil and then spread the ricotta cheese. Crack the 3 eggs evenly over the pizza.
Then place the asparagus and prosciutto.
As the second side grills, the cheese melts, and the eggs begin to cook. When the egg whites are set the pizza is done. Sprinkle with Amagansett Sea Salt, East Hampton Blend, cracked black pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.

August 11, 2013

Dock to Dish Spears the Future of Sea-to-Table

August 11, 2013/ laura luciano

As land-dwellers we have a 360-degree view of our agricultural landscape, an everyday convenience to absorb what is all around us: Amber Wave Farms is growing the season’s bounty, Browder’s Birds are grazing on pastures and in Montauk, N.Y. the fishermen are bringing fresh seafood to the docks. Nowadays, there are values that have gathered momentum in our agricultural landscape—“how was this tomato grown and who raised my chicken?”— is transferring over to the fishing industry. We know our farmers, but have you ventured beyond your local fishmonger and market and on to the docks to get to know your fisherman?

Well, this might be your chance. Dock to Dish, a CSF, community supported fishery, spears the future of sea-to-table by delivering fresh sustainably harvested seafood to your dish within 24 hours of being pulled from the ocean.

And fish is not the only thing they are hooking into, awareness and education are on their radar. Every week a newsletter goes out to inform members of their weekly catch describing: who, what, when, where and why the fish was caught, a suggested recipe to go along with the catch, a sustainable write-up about the species and strict methods used during and immediately after capture. They are also dedicated to hosting a variety of events for members and guests about why it is so important to support your local fishermen and to become stewards of our seas.

I was fortunate enough to attend their first event that celebrated the New York Times Best Selling book, Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food at Canio’s Bookstore in Sag Harbor and to meet the author, lifelong fisherman and the book’s James Beard award-winning writer Paul Greenberg.

There are many challenges we face in sourcing local, wild and sustainable seafood. "Today we take more seafood out of the ocean every year than the equivalent of the human weight of China,” says Paul Greenberg. His scientific investigation and insight into how four wild fish: salmon, tuna, bass and cod frequently end up on dinner plates and whether they can be brought back from the brink of extinction was fascinating. “Our menus will be shaped in the coming years by aquaculture, we can expect to see limited options listed as the catch of the day. Local seafood, not too much and mostly bivalves is what we should be eating,” he says.

“It meant the world for us to have Paul Greenberg as our first guest speaker,” says Sean Barrett, co-founder of Dock to Dish. “Four Fish was a motivating force behind our launch. Now, having met Paul, we are able to see the relationship deepen and our understanding of his amazing work expand. As we continue learning the myriad of benefits in knowing our fisherman, we can now apply that philosophy to Paul and advocate that our members really get to know thy author.”

L-R: Melissa Hillmer, Paul Greenberg, Sean Barret, Laura Luciano, Ralph Towlen, and bottom row Jamie Pollack

When I looked across the intimate Canios Bookstore there were many like-minded and familiar faces: Top-chef and avid fisherman Kerry Heffernan, Editor of Edible East End , Brian Halweil, Culinary Nutritionist and the host of Stirring the Pot on WPPB, Stefanie Sachs and New York State Field Outreach Representative of Fisheries for the Pew Charitable Trusts, Director of Operations for Shark Angels and scuba diver Jamie Pollack.

“The majority of fishermen see the fish from the surface when its caught and find the fun of the sport in the fight of the animal, I see the beauty of marine life in its natural habitat swimming around and interacting with it's environment,” says Jamie Pollack

Ralph Towlen, a spear gun fisherman and co-founder of Dock to Dish knows first hand what is beneath the hull and swimming in our oceans. Spear gun fishing is the most sustainable fishing method known to man. “We have zero bycatch, can harvest exact amounts, are able to analyze fish schools to pick the biggest and healthiest, and at times gender specific fish. If we see a female is carrying eggs we let the fish live and procreate,” says Sean Barrett. “Our restaurant clients are serving the freshest fish to over 700 people a week, combined with our CSF that is 1,000.” Expect to see a variety of local Long Island and New England fishes year round, including: black bass, blowfish, bluefish, haddock, hake, monkfish, pollock, porgy, skate, striped bass, summer flounder, redfish, swordfish, tilefish, tunas, wreckfish, mahi mahi, mullet, snappers, triggerfish and wahoo.

Another bonus to spear gun fishing is their conservation efforts to reverse the years of damage to the oceans ecosystem and marine life from lost drag nets and traps; these items are retrieved by Dock to Dish divers any chance they can get.

Paul Greenberg touched upon the Magnuson-Stevens Act or MSA. This was a law that was passed in 1976 and sets the standard for conservation, management and sustainable fishing in U.S. ocean waters. This act:

Kicked out foreign fishing fleets.
Established our Economic Zone which is about 4 million square miles of ocean 3-200 miles offshore and
established 8 regional councils to govern this vast territory. These councils are made up of representatives of coastal state governments, scientists and fishermen.
Set annual catch limits and accountability measures and
gave fish 10 years to rebuild.

The MSA was reauthorized in 2006 and is set to expire at the end of Sept 2013. “To weaken this world-class model now would be to ignore the innovation and sacrifice of those who built it over time, says Jamie Pollack.

When Congress reauthorizes the Magnuson-Stevens Act, it should consider amendments to:

Minimize the habitat damage and bycatch of indiscriminate fishing.
Ensure that adequate forage fish are in the water to feed the larger ecosystem.
Promote ecosystem-based fisheries management.

This law has been proven to strengthen the health of our seas and Dock to Dish is a great example of a CSF who is following suit.

Paul Greenberg signed personal copies of his book for fans by request. Some read: Thanks for your work to protect our oceans. Because of you, the oceans are a better place. It is nice to know that the grassroots movement has hit our seas.

A few hours before the event I had received my weekly Dock to Dish newsletter informing me of my family share—4lbs of Golden Tilefish. I thought, “wouldn’t it be apropo to share the catch and have a dinner for friends and family, including Sean Barrett, the fisherman himself.” Fisherman to Dish—it does not get more tangible than that.

While I was preparing our meal of: Arugula with Catapano goat cheese, beets and walnuts, grilled local sweet corn, North Fork heirloom cherry tomatoes, fresh mozzarella with homegrown basil, and pan seared Golden Tilefish with fresh herbs from Amber Waver Farms, friends and family were mingling.

I observed something truly remarkable, a discussion around the meal we were about to have, in particular—the Golden Tilefish. Even my father who is an avid fisherman of these local waters learned a thing or two. Golden Tilefish is a deep-water delicacy; 250 to 1,500 feet deep where cold bottom temperatures range from 49 to 58 degrees Fahrenheit. What made the catch most special was who caught the fish—The Nolan Family of Montauk, N.Y. and where it was caught— in the Hudson Canyon.

Sean Barrett, co-founder of Dock to Dish

Finally dinner was served; everyone grabbed a dish and helped themselves to the feast. As we sat down and took our first bite of this Golden Tilefish that has a sweet and mild flavor similar to lobster and crab; thoughts surmounted. “This is the freshest fish I have ever eaten” “simply awesome” “incredibly tender” “I never knew fish could taste this good”. I would love to take all the credit and accolades for the taste of this truly spectacular fish; truth be told it is the fish that speaks for itself. There is very little you need to do to the fish when it is taken from the docks to your kitchen in a matter of hours— less is more flavor.

Over dinner we shared stories of past, present and upcoming future fishing trips; an evening I will always remember and cherish. I grew up fishing on the East End of Long Island, my fisherman and fishmonger is one in the same—my Pops. Similar to Paul Greenberg, my parents divorced when I was a child and his way to bond with my brother and me was to take us fishing; to this day all us kids still fish.

Brother John, Pops, Sister Kristin and Me

For Sean Barrett he saw his dream come to life; Dock to Dish created a dialogue around the dish, and before his eyes he saw first hand how he brought the sea-to-table.

Recipe for Pan Seared Golden Tilefish

ingredients

Sea Salt and Pepper
1 bunch of parsley and dill, chopped
4 lemons and juice of 1 lemon
1-2 tablespoons of olive oil

directions

Season fish with salt and pepper on both sides.
Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan.
Lay 2 fish filets skin side down and let sear until you see the fish turning white along the sides for about 5 minutes, or until the skin is crispy.
Once the flesh turns white about 1/2 way up the edges of the fish, turn it over and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining filets.
Sprinkle with the parsley, dill and juice of one lemon over all of fish. Garnish with additional lemon wedges and finish with a sprinkle of sea salt.

That's it!

September 17, 2012

Beets Me!

September 17, 2012/ laura luciano

My Monday’s usually begin with a Bikram Yoga class at 6:30am followed by a stroll through the Union Square Market in NYC to think about the weeks eats. I know some of you are saying, “what posses her to get up at an ungodly hour and immerse herself in a 105°F oven?”, that answer would be for another blog and may bore some, but one of the benefits is being at the USQ Market first thing in the morning. I had just come off of the North Fork Foodie Tour the day before and was pondering the great places I visited and some of the “yummies” which were awaiting to be married with something I may find. I went to my usual spots and chatted it up with the market folks. I had my camera with me that morning and someone asked, “what are you taking photos of?” I said, “The market to get some inspiration on something to make for dinner!” They said, “What do you think that may be?" I said, "Beats Me!" And as I said goodbye, just south of me were a row of the most beautiful Beets I have ever seen! All sorts of varieties: Chiogga Beets, Golden Beets, Forono Beets, Red Beets, White Beets. Beets! Beets! Beets! A color palette most designers would hope Pantone would replicate!

Inspired, I picked up some Golden Beets and Yellow Carrots and went on my merry way.

Roasted Golden Beet, Carrot and Ginger Soup

Ingredients

2lbs of golden beets (2 bunches). If you have beets with their green tops reserve for a delicious side dish.
3 large golden carrots
1 large onion
3 celery stalks (plus tops if you have)
1 garlic head (cut across middle)
1 tsp fresh grated ginger
1 small orange zested
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
2 pats of butter (optional)
2 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
10 cups of home made vegetable stock (see recipe below) or use store bought.

Garnish

Catapano Dairy Farm: Chévre Goat Cheese
Koppert Cress: Amaranth Cress and Rock Chives Cress

note: I tend to make enough food to feed an army, it is in my Italian genes! You never know who may stop by or not. Also, soup season is coming so you might as well make more while you are at it; freeze for later, and it will save you time in the long run when you need to quickly heat that homemade something up! If you half this recipe it will feed 4 comfortably.

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F and have a baking sheet ready for roasting the veggies.
Clean and peel the beets and carrots. Thankfully the beets are golden yellow, so you do not have to worry about the red juice going all over the place or wearing gloves for that matter.
Chop beets, carrots, onions and celery into 1-inch chunks.
Grate the fresh ginger and zest one small orange.
Cut the garlic head in half, drizzle with some olive oil and wrap in tinfoil to place in oven for later.
Drizzle veggies with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on a baking sheet and put in oven with garlic which is wrapped in tinfoil.
Roast for 35 – 45 minutes, or until the veggies are soft and tender when poked with a fork.

note: If the beets have the greens intact when you obtain them reserve for a delicious side dish. (recipe below)

note: garlic needs to be wrapped in tin foil to keep the garlic from burning.

Making the Soup
Once out of oven, take the garlic and squeeze the garlic meat into a large pot. You may want to give the garlic a few minutes to cool before handling. Then add the roasted veggies, ginger and orange zest into the pot, along with 10 cups of vegetable stock. Once the ingredients come to a boil turn the heat off and use an immersion blender (hand held).

note: If you do not have an immersion blender you will need to work in batches to puree the soup in the blender. Dump some of the vegetables and garlic into a blender with some of the vegetable stock to puree. In order to be safe, it is recommended when you blend hot liquids that you never fill the jar more than half full, that you put the lid on and then cover it with a dry towel and hold it down by hand. Also, use as slow a speed as possible to start. I once made a critical error of doing the opposite and had gotten liquid all over my tiny NYC apt, my dog Trixie and I. Thankfully we were not scortched and was able to laugh afterwards. Trixie was thrilled, it was like a giant treat explosion!

Once the mixture is puréed and incorporated in the pot place the remaining ingredients: butter pats (optional), sherry vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until the ingredients dissolve.

Pour into bowls and serve with your favorite garnish: My choice: a dollop of Catapano Chévre Goat Cheese and Koppert Cress Amaranth Cress garnish and maybe even a beet or carrot chip.

note: I realize the items listed above you may not have access to since it pertains to "local ingredients". You can very easily substitute the above garnish items with what you have locally. Be creative! Some suggestions may be chives or scallions and of course a favorite goat cheese or other cheese like ricotta that you have access to. Or, simply have the soup by itself!

Vegetable Stock

Vegetables

1 large leek
1 large onion
Fennel stalks (lop off at base of fingers which includes fronds)
3 large celery stalks
3 large carrots
handful of mushrooms (cremini or button)
1 large head of garlic sliced

Aromatics

Thyme
1 large bunch parsley
(tie together thyme and parsley)
2 bay leaf

Additional Ingredients

1 tbsp salt
1 tsp peppercorn
1.5 gallons of water or less (approximately)
1 tbsp of olive oil

Directions

Chop leeks, onions, fennel, celery, carrots and mushrooms into 1-inch chunks.
Heat olive oil in a soup pot. Add the chopped vegetables and cook over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add the head of garlic sliced, parsley and thyme bundle, bay leaves, salt, peppercorns and 1.5 gallons of water (Approximately).
Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, for 1 hour.
Strain and discard vegetables.